There’s no better way to revamp a room than with a fresh coat of paint. Find everything you need to know about rollers, brushes, quick fixes and finishes
1. Getting ready
Before you start painting, empty the room as much as possible. Cover immovable furniture and the floor with old sheets or newspaper. Mask the edges of windows, skirting, ceiling rose covers, electrical sockets and switches, and door hinges, knobs and latches. Make sure the room is well ventilated, and check that you have the necessary protective gear: overalls, mask, gloves, eyewear and hat.
2. Trusty tool kit
Assemble all the equipment you’re going to need before painting. Here’s a checklist of essential tools: masking tape (to mask edges of switches, frames, etc), scraper (to remove flakes of old paint), an extension pole or ladder (for reaching inaccessible places), rollers and brushes, trays (to coat rollers evenly), bucket and cleaning tools, rags (to clean brushes and paint splashes), thinner (necessary if using oil-based paint) and of course primer and paint.
3. Spot checking
For a smooth, long-lasting finish, always inspect the surface for nail holes, flaking, cracks, runs or ridges in the old paint. You can patch holes and cracks with filler and then sand the patched area down. Rough spots need to be sanded off using fine-grit sandpaper. Always scrape off loose paint with a putty knife and sand down the edges. And fill the dimples around popped nails with filler. For damp walls, wash with sugar soap and apply mould-resistant paint.
4. Where to start
Always paint your room in this order: ceiling first, to avoid dripping on walls. For a more even coat, paint across the short width of the ceiling. Walls come next and you should do borders first and work downwards. Then the windows - paint the inner frame first - and doors, painting any moulding first, then the panels, the horizontal and vertical segments and finally the edges. If you are painting, staining or varnishing the floor, leave it ‘til last, after the wall and trim paint have dried thoroughly.
5. Using a brush
Use a paintbrush for corners, edges, doors and windows. When using a brush, dip a third of the bristles into the paint and remove excess. Hold the brush near its base and apply slight pressure through your fingertips ‘til the bristles flex slightly towards the tip. Always paint in one direction for a consistent look. Tie a rag around the rim of the paint pot, that way any residue paint that falls off the brush won’t drop onto the floor.
6. Rolling it on
To use a roller, first paint into the deep end of the roller tray and dip the roller in. Roll towards the shallow portion of the tray and then back and forth to evenly coat the roller with paint. Be careful not to overload the roller, and paint in as big sweeps as you can. For walls, roll a big ‘N’ or ‘M’ and fill in using cross-wise strokes. Paint as close to the edges as possible as this will leave less work for you to do with the brush.
7. Selecting a finish
Whether you are undertaking a DIY paint project or hiring painters, it’s your job to decide on the paint finish. Choosing the right one is up to your own personal preference - you just need to remember that the glossier the finish, the more washable and durable it is and therefore better able to withstand frequent traffic. The type of room or surface you are painting will also help to determine the paint finish.
8. Flat finish
Flat-finish paints dry with no sheen - that is, they have a matte finish that does not reflect light. They will disguise imperfections on the wall and are forgiving on novice painters. A matte finish is generally hard to clean, so it’s advisable to keep leftover paint on hand for touch-ups. Matte paint is a good choice for ceilings or walls in rooms that receive little traffic, such as a study. An eggshell finish is similar to a matte finish but it has a tiny glimmer of sheen when dry. It suits walls as it washes slightly better than flat-finish paints.
9. Gloss finish
Gloss paints have a reflective quality. They bring out even the slightest of imperfections, so meticulous surface preparation is essential. Gloss is used mostly on windows, doors and trims. It can be used for bathroom and kitchen walls as it withstands water and frequent cleaning. Some people find high-gloss too shiny and opt for semi-gloss instead. Highgloss is a good choice for painting furniture as it creates a modern, durable finish.
10. Satin finish
Also referred to as velvet finish, a satin finish is often the glossiest finish a decorator will recommend for walls in rooms other than the bathroom and kitchen. It’s ideal for children’s bedrooms and other high-traffic areas such as hallways and living areas, as it’s suited to washing and light scrubbing. Satin-finish paint is regularly used for windows, doors, trims and ceilings, too.
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